Calculate installation prices for Vinyl, Fiber Cement, Cedar Clapboard & Shingles, & Aluminum Siding. Free Siding Calculator tool helps homeowners estimate residential siding prices. To calculate siding installation price, simply plug-in your home foundation measurements, number of floors in you home and number of windows and doors that will need to get trimmed with flat-stock aluminum coil.
Siding Calculator v. 1.1 features: Progressive siding pricing algorithm accounts for smaller residential siding projects (under 700 sq. ft.) – prices are adjusted to account for smaller size job. Now you can also estimate cost of installing aluminum copping (aluminum trim) around windows, doors, bay windows, etc. It is also possible to calculate soffit and fascia installation cost for vented vinyl soffits and aluminum fascia trimming.
* Siding prices are estimated, and will vary based on your geographic location, local market conditions and and other factors, such as fluctuating costs of roofing materials. Although vinyl siding prices are not directly related to oil prices, they seem to go up when oil is up, and usually do not drop back down. In case of cedar siding the clear-coat staining or painting is not included in price calculation.
** Siding prices are calculated based on the assumption that you are working with a reputable, fully licensed and insured siding contractor. Although the General Liability Insurance for siding installation is rather inexpensive, the Worker’s Comp insurance is what the contractors usually skip on.
How to use siding price calculator:
It is important that the information that you plug into the siding calculator is more or less accurate – this way you will get the best estimate of siding installation costs for your particular home.
Take the ground measurements of your house, from corner to corner. Our calculator assumes that your house has rectangular shape. It cannot operate with odd shaped objects, so when you are plugging in the ground dimensions of your home, that is not rectangular, calculate the outer perimeter of your house and plug it in, multiplied by one.
For example, you have an “L” shaped house that measures 50 x 25 feet for the main section of the house and 20 x 15 feet for the bump-out section. Calculate your outside wall dimensions – in our case it will be: 50′ (back side), 25′ + 25′ (sides of the main section), 30′ (front of the main section), and 15′ + 15′ + 20′ (sides and front of the bump-out section). Your total outside perimeter (length of the outside walls) is 180 linear feet. Plug in 180 x 1 into the calculator.
PS. You can use the length of the outside walls to also get the pricing on soffit and fascia installation.
This may be subjective, but try to estimate how difficult it would be to install the siding on your home. If you have a bunch of small bump-out sections, sun rooms, porches with sloped roof, and my favorite – old style bay window framed out as part of the house (not the one you can buy at Home Depot). All this things take considerable time and generate lots of waste, and therefore will cost more.
Also, your cost per sq. ft. will go up, with the number of floors in your home. We did leave the 1 and 2 story homes the same, but three story houses (usually older triple-deckers) are fairly difficult, compared to a ranch house, and installing siding on them will cost more.
When I was installing siding many years ago, subbing for Sears – I heard their sales men preaching the importance of insulation and how it will save millions of dollars on heating cost. It is true, but even a 1 inch extruded foam insulation will not do magic. It is best to have the cavities in your walls insulated by either roll insulation (Owens Corning style r-13 insulation that you see at Home Depot), Blown in or expandable spray-foam insulation. Putting up rigid board insulation on the outside walls is not the best method, especially if you are going over existing siding.
To get best results form the insulation installed on the outside, you want 2 or even 3 inches of Poly-ISO insulation with aluminum foil facing, which in a way also works like radiant barrier. In this case you will get 13-20 R-value without opening up your sheet-rocks. This however will be a much more complicated project as you will need to attach the insulation and then install furring strips all around your house, so that you could then attach the siding. You will also have to deal with the fact that your siding sticks out by a couple of inches past all your doors and windows, and these openings need to be properly trimmed to keep the heat in and water out.
Stripping off the old siding is VERY uncommon, and is rarely done, as it is mainly a waste of money. It is actually better to leave the old siding on, as it adds some insulation R-value and acts as additional moisture barrier.
When you need to tear off the old siding:
- It is necessary to remove any vinyl siding before you install new siding, as you cannot nail insulation and new siding over old vinyl.
- When you are installing new cedar siding, you also have to remove all siding off the walls of the house as you need flat surface to install new cedar.
In other cases, I’d recommend leaving your old wood siding on, and not go through additional expenses and mess in the yard.
Windows and Door wraps with aluminum flat stock metal
When a new vinyl or composite siding is installed, it is recommended that you also include the window / door aluminum trimming. First, aluminum copping will protect the wood around your windows and doors from moisture, as well as hide the ugly chipping and peeling paint.
There are many stiles of metal copping around the windows and doors and each contractor will have their own. You should discuss it with your installer.
The two most common styles are “[” shaped metal put over the window trim, and sills, and J-channel installed around it, to receive the siding.
Second style is more complicated and time consuming, but looks much better when done right. Metal trim is installed over the window trim, and has a J-channel built in. It is rather difficult to fabricate this type of window trim on your typical 10′ brake, but it is doable. It’s also fairly difficult to put it together and have all corners fit tightly and match. Also it may not be an option if you have window sill, unless they are modified.
For the purposes of calculating the price of installing windows and door trims, we assume that you will be getting “[” shape metal with J-channel. The other type of metal trims is more aexpensive and each siding installer has different prices.
When you are installing cedar siding – be it shingles or clap-boards – the trim around doors and windows is usually new 1×4 cedar board – no metal is use with cedar siding. You should still include the number of trims that you have, when calculating cost of cedar siding.
Soffit and Fascia installation prices:
Siding prices for calculated for .042″ Vinyl Siding, .048″ Premium Vinyl Siding, Hardie Board (and other similar composition siding), Red Cedar Shingles (Cape Code style) and Clapboard Cedar Siding.
Siding Calculator software update – on Apr. 4, 2011 we made major update to the siding estimate calculator, and although some may not stand out right away, this update made the calculator a lot more accurate and can now differentiate between several types of homes/roofs such as Gable style home (Ranch, Colonial, Cape, Bungalow), Hip, Multiple Gables (Victorian type homes) and Raised Ranch house, as well as added roof pitch calculation to account for addition siding materials on low as steep slope roofs. Find out more about new features and options were added to siding calculator, to make in more accurate in estimating siding prices.